Authors

Discussion

The paper traces the construction of Ukrainian identity and culture through the lens of fashion. It highlights the history of international cooperation in fashion across the Iron Curtain, while also exploring tensions arising within the Soviet Union, particularly between the fashion houses of the Soviet Republic of Ukraine and the Soviet central authorities. Ukrainian fashion houses had a great deal of autonomy, allowing designers to express Ukrainian identity and culture through fashion. However, designers and consumers were closely monitored and controlled to prevent their choices from veering into the realm of Ukrainian independence politics. Simultaneously, the Ukrainian diaspora actively participated in preserving and spreading Ukrainian culture abroad, including in the realm of fashion. They organized fashion exhibitions, contests, and even museums where the clothing collection played a crucial role.

The Ukrainian SSR was one of the main centers of fashion development in the Soviet Union. Ukrainian designers acted as fashion ambassadors and participated in numerous foreign fashion exhibitions and shows. The Expo-1967 in Montreal was particularly noteworthy as Ukrainian fashion gained popularity among Western observers, solidifying its status as aesthetically distinct from larger Soviet fashion trends. Moreover, it facilitated contact between Soviet Ukraine and the sizable Ukrainian diaspora in Canada and the United States, which raised suspicions in Moscow. The diaspora not only actively supported all aspects of Ukrainian culture but also advocated for a free and independent Ukraine. Fashion shows in Montreal and other global events showcased Ukraine’s ability to act as a bridge between the West, occasionally exploited by officials, but often discouraged.

Ukrainian designers focused on the cultural and historical heritage of Ukraine, which they showcased in national and international exhibitions. Ukrainian fashion possessed distinct characteristics: it incorporated traditional designs, employed Ukrainian specialists, and utilized domestically produced fabrics. Simultaneously, the Ukrainian diaspora actively promoted Ukrainian fashion through various channels abroad. Overall, Ukraine has achieved success in exporting its national brand through fashion. However, this success has entailed depoliticizing folkloric elements and isolating fashion traditions from other, more controversial issues. These concerns encompass topics such as the role of Kyivan Rus’ and Cossacks in Ukrainian history or the literature associated with folkloric themes.

The research is based on a diverse range of sources collected from Ukraine, the USA, Canada, Germany, and Russia. These sources include archival documents, interviews, and periodicals. The materials consist of documents from the Ministry of Light Industry, fashion houses, garment and shoe factories, tailor shops, and other institutions directly engaged in the development and product