Authors

Discussion

This paper explores the multifaceted realm of Indigenous clothing in Western Siberia, focusing on Khanty communities. Using an experimental approach, we position ourselves both within and outside Khanty society, as well as within and outside Western academia, looking at contemporary processes surrounding Khanty clothing from both male and female perspectives. Clothing, along with reindeer herding, is the main symbol of cultural difference and ethnic identity for the West Siberian Khanty and has become the quintessential symbol of their Indigenous heritage, revealing the legacies of colonisation as well as demonstrating tenacity and resistance. Drawing on our personal experiences of wearing Khanty clothing, we aim to unpack its complex meanings and explore the responses it evokes within and beyond Indigenous cultural intimacy. Over the last few decades, we have witnessed changes in the way Khanty clothing is made, decorated, worn and interpreted, shedding light on how clothing contributes to cultural revitalisation. We also provide insight into the complex ways in which clothing connects and protects the human body, the environment and other non-human agents, but also how and why such meanings are not always revealed to outsiders. We explore concepts of gendered agency through the practical and symbolic meanings of Khanty clothing, as well as the organisation of gendered agency and visuality around the human body. Particular attention is paid to the ritual contexts of dress, from intimate religious ceremonies to state-sponsored public festivals and museum events, revealing how dress serves both cultural expression and the reinforcement of social hierarchies and stereotypes. The dominance of outsiders' conceptualisations of Indigenous heritage embeds dress in contested discourses and provides an arena for negotiating authenticity, status and paternalistic relations. This dual perspective, considering both emic and etic perspectives, allows for a comprehensive analysis of Indigenous-state relations, heritage politics, and the role of voice and visibility in Indigenous self-determination. Through this exploration of Indigenous clothing practices and meanings, we aim to contribute to a deeper understanding of the complexities of Khanty identity and heritage in the face of ongoing social and cultural transformations.