Authors
Iuliia Papushina1; 1 independant scholar, Russian Federation Discussion
The examination of social hierarchies is a well-established theme in social science, and one realm renowned for its pronounced hierarchy is the world of fashion. This paper explores the central-periphery dynamics within Soviet fashion hierarchies during the period spanning the 1960s to the 1980s. In this context, the paper focuses on the two key instruments used to maintain the central-periphery hierarchy in Soviet fashion: guiding meetings (known as "metodicheskie soveshhanija") and the formulation of fashion trend guidelines (referred to as "rekomendacii po napravleniju mody"). This paper aims to unveil both the intended and unintended consequences of these instruments by analyzing the published guidelines and drawing insights from the experiences of designers employed by the Perm Clothing Design House (Perm CDH). The Perm CDH, established in 1961, was a local design institution tasked with providing fresh designs for regional clothing producers. The intended purposes of these guidelines and guiding meetings were multifaceted. They aimed to symbolically unite the diverse Soviet territories, each characterized by distinct climates, clothing styles, and national costume traditions. Furthermore, they sought to align the pace of fashion trends with the slower tempo of the Soviet clothing industry and to foster enriching professional interactions among local designers. However, it is crucial to recognize that these measures also generated unintended outcomes. For instance, they exposed Soviet local designers to Western fashion houses and brands, thereby opening up unexpected avenues for engagement with the wider world of fashion. Additionally, these initiatives inadvertently created opportunities for shifts in positions within the central-periphery hierarchy of Clothing Design Houses (CDHs). 
